DX is another term for Ultras. They are more complex, flip around some, and pick the battle core up off the field, usually to better show it to the players. Basics, the rest, stay on top of the core and open upright.
#tfconla day 0 haul - Burbank
All the Bakugan were $25! Altogether!
Thanks for reading along! This was new territory for me, and the trial and error of it all was exhilarating. I felt like an antique nail smith, rediscovering a lost art in handmade manufacturing.
Anyway, try something new, be kind, and fix your toys!
With the exception of the dent I made in the cap and filed back over, and the lack of a mirror polish, you could really forget this wasn’t a stock piece! It certainly does the job just as well, and it lets me play with a perfectly good toy again w/o worry.
Then I used flush cutters to trim the excess!
Then I used this beading tool to punch the pin through. It’s a great tool, can’t recommend it enough. Great for quickly getting out short pins.
Word to the wise, it can dent this soft aluminum, so use something harder on top to distribute the pressure.
Then I pinched the body with toothless flat pliers until the shaft and pin head were back within spec.
It took a few minutes, but I eventually squeezed, bent, filed, and sculpted the pin into shape. Not bad!
Then I hammered the head flat and filed it smooth. First on top and then around the sides.
Then I peeled that flower out with fine needlenose pliers, forming the flat head. Just putting the material where I need it.
Then to make a flat end. The goal is to spread the top out like a flower. Punch a hole in the end. But I had to sand it flat so the automatic center punch would hit accurately.
It took me a couple tries to figure out how to make a cap, but this is what I found worked.
Cut a piece of wire slightly longer than a pair of grippy pliers. Do this on top of metal if you can, hammering it put dents in my wooden desk.
I started by measuring the hole with my digital micro-calipers and found that the pin is ~2mm, the clear hole is 2mm, and the yellow hole is slightly smaller. The cap def holds it all together. So I started with 2mm aluminum wire. Soft enough to be worked, firm enough to hold the joint securely.
to challenge myself because I believed I could. This was fun! And it felt really nice to just fix the problem.
Okay, now onto the process
Firstly, I don’t want any hate toward the factory worker who left out the pin. It’s a job, mistakes are bound to happen, and we must be kind.
Second, I don’t wanna hear “but you shouldn’t have to—“ ah-ah. I *don’t* have to. I could get another and return this one. I could live with it. But I wanted
“Of all the circuit glitch diode blowin’ dimwittery — you left a piece out!”
SS MTMTE pink Hot Rod was missing a flat pin! No harm, no foul, everybody makes mistakes. So I… well, I made one from scratch. Follow along if you’re curious how!
what’re you waiting for bro dap him up
Replenishing Clipees stock for #tfconla!
And lawd if he don’t know it
Ok still obsessed with Blokees Mirage so have a gallery
For those who don’t know, Clipees are magnetic mounts that turn Blokees Transformers into wearable accessories! I designed and make and sell em on Etsy! Link in bio
Happy to report:
Blokees Classic Class RotB Mirage is Clipee compatible!
I did punch the pin and remove the skirt piece before cutting it. I also replaced the pin with 2mm aluminum wire, which is softer, but you can make it too long and bend the ends to hold the hip skirts on!
Nailed it in one!
Look I loved SS86 Thundercracker before, but now? Damn near perfection. 👌🏻
Can you spot the mod?
Pretty much. I offered to buy it if just the spool or box were damaged, but they said it was just plain unsalvageable. Rip
So, bummer news
The filament I used for Samus’s beam cannon is hard to find now. I found one seller, and it was expensive, but they reached out and said, “we’re so sorry, but our remaining stock has been crushed.” So now I may need to pay double somewhere to continue this project.
