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Connla Stokes

@connla-stokes

Writer - Flâneur/ Cycleur ~ Saigon/ HCM City. Author of 'Falling for Saigon', a collection of essays about life in contemporary Ho Chi Minh City. https://connla.substack.com

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11.11.2023
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Latest posts by Connla Stokes @connla-stokes

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A nice little scene along the Saigon River today — a cluster of chess players sitting under a Yellow Flame Tree that’s looking a little autumnal as it sheds petals.

07.03.2026 17:48 👍 1 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
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The Last French Tables: A Culinary Endgame in Old Saigon The slow eclipse of French cuisine in wartime Saigon, told in snapshots through the eyes of foreign visitors from 1952 to 1975.

A long read — another ‘reconstructed narrative’ — this one about the slow demise of French restaurants in wartime Saigon, told in snapshots through the eyes of foreign visitors, including Richard West, Gloria Emerson, Jon Swain, Neil Davis and many others.

connla.substack.com/p/the-last-f...

05.03.2026 11:51 👍 6 🔁 2 💬 0 📌 0
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The Last French Tables: A Culinary Endgame in Old Saigon The slow eclipse of French cuisine in wartime Saigon, told in snapshots through the eyes of foreign visitors from 1952 to 1975.

A long read — another ‘reconstructed narrative’ — this one about the slow demise of French restaurants in wartime Saigon, told in snapshots through the eyes of foreign visitors, including Richard West, Gloria Emerson, Jon Swain, Neil Davis and many others.

connla.substack.com/p/the-last-f...

05.03.2026 11:51 👍 6 🔁 2 💬 0 📌 0
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Reading 2025: Development, depravity, perseverance, and adventure Taking advantage of a snowy January day to summarize 2025’s reading, a year of corruption, development, depravity, perseverance, and adventure. Not that different from earlier years, now that I thi…

Very grateful for this mention in
Jim Anderson’s fav reads of 2025 — cheers Jim!

jimnosredna.com/2026/01/26/r...

28.02.2026 12:48 👍 2 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
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Due out in many markets 24 March (but not North America, stay tuned for word on a future US/Canada edition), my very very short book on the PRC in the Xi era--deeply grateful to Minh Bui Jones for many things, Rana Mitter for his Intro, & Tania B, Cindy Y, David M & Victor M for the blurbs

26.02.2026 18:57 👍 10 🔁 4 💬 0 📌 0
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George Orwell wrote that Mark Benney's 1940 novel The Big Wheel was about "the London sub-world, the dreadful civilization of pin-tables, cheap night clubs and furnished single rooms, where sport, crime, prostitution, mendicancy and journalism all overlap..."

neglectedbooks.com/?...

26.02.2026 14:00 👍 12 🔁 3 💬 0 📌 0
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You can find this moving documentary online on a few different platforms—and it’s definitely worth a watch.

It follows the director Peter McDowell on a decade-long quest to pull together a more complete picture of what happened to his brother, Jimmy, who died as a civilian in Saigon in 1972.

25.02.2026 11:09 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
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“Bi sắt” — literally “iron balls”

Bi = balls (often small round balls, like marbles)
Sắt = iron

19.02.2026 04:35 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
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And if anyone in Ho Chi Minh City ever wants to join a pétanque league — the
CLB Bi Sắt Quận 10 meets in Le Thi Rieng park …. Most of the players appeared to have cycled there.

19.02.2026 04:35 👍 1 🔁 0 💬 1 📌 0
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This Saigonese resident didn’t skimp on the Tet decorations ….

#tetroi #saigon #tet #hochiminhcity

19.02.2026 03:44 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
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Another out-the-front spiral staircase here — seen on Bac Hai street in the old District 10. Hard to see the detail in the fading light but the whole house has a very cool modernist design.
#urbandesign #saigon #modernistarchitecture

19.02.2026 03:40 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
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The outdoor spiral staircase is a common sight in some Saigonese / Ho Chi Minh City neighborhoods — an easy way to make a two-storey house have separate floors / entrances. This one is in Tan Binh Ward.
#saigon #urbandesign #architecture

19.02.2026 03:21 👍 2 🔁 0 💬 1 📌 0
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𝐂𝐚𝐥𝐥 𝐟𝐨𝐫 𝐚𝐛𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐚𝐜𝐭𝐬—𝐂𝐡𝐚: 𝐀𝐧 𝐀𝐬𝐢𝐚𝐧 𝐋𝐢𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐚𝐫𝐲 𝐉𝐨𝐮𝐫𝐧𝐚𝐥 𝐖𝐨𝐫𝐤𝐬𝐡𝐨𝐩

𝐇𝐨𝐧𝐠 𝐊𝐨𝐧𝐠 & 𝐈𝐫𝐞𝐥𝐚𝐧𝐝:
𝐈𝐧𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐰𝐨𝐯𝐞𝐧 𝐇𝐢𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐫𝐢𝐞𝐬, 𝐒𝐡𝐚𝐫𝐞𝐝 𝐋𝐚𝐧𝐠𝐮𝐚𝐠𝐞𝐬, & 𝐂𝐨𝐧𝐧𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐞𝐝 𝐅𝐮𝐭𝐮𝐫𝐞𝐬

⧉ 𝐌𝐨𝐫𝐞 𝐢𝐧𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐦𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧: chajournal.com/2026/02/17/c...
。。。。。

17.02.2026 11:02 👍 7 🔁 9 💬 0 📌 0
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And this one is a pic….

17.02.2026 06:10 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
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Continued….

17.02.2026 06:09 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 1 📌 0
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Continued….

17.02.2026 06:09 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 1 📌 0
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And a few clips below — all taken last night on the last day of the lunar year — from what I still call Phu Nhuan district but not actually sure what ward it is since the rejigging of the city’s wards.

#tet2026 #hochiminhcity #saigon

17.02.2026 06:05 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 1 📌 0
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This house was down a heavily decorated alley in the Da Kao area (near Dien Bien Phu road)

17.02.2026 06:01 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 1 📌 0
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Another alley here — off Nguyen Phi Khánh road in Tân Dĩnh ward.

17.02.2026 05:59 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 1 📌 0
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Many of the communities in #Saigon pitch in to decorate their own hem (alleyways) for Tet (and other holidays). In the last couple of years more lighting has been added but this alley added a nice touch with these hanging threads (low enough for my helmet to be hitting them)

#hochiminhcity #tet2026

17.02.2026 05:55 👍 1 🔁 0 💬 1 📌 0

Personally I am most looking forward to the re-staging of cult classic Backlisted episodes about cult classic books — e.g. No. 130: Karoo by Steve Tesich.

10.02.2026 15:07 👍 1 🔁 0 💬 1 📌 0
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A few pix of the zoo and gardens — and there are more images on the Substack.

28.01.2026 07:30 👍 2 🔁 1 💬 0 📌 0
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One day at the Saigon zoo Originally published by the Shanghai Literary Review, this updated essay takes readers on a walk through history at the Saigon Zoo & Botanical Gardens – a precious piece of land in more ways than one.

I just reposted this old essay—originally published in July, 2025 by the Shanghai Literary Review—on the Substack with an added section featuring some of Richard West's observations of the zoo from 1966/1967 plus a brief anecdote from Michael Herr’s Dispatches.
connla.substack.com/p/one-day-at...

28.01.2026 07:14 👍 7 🔁 3 💬 1 📌 0
Saint Jack (1979) | directed by Peter Bogdanovich
Saint Jack (1979) | directed by Peter Bogdanovich YouTube video by TNAPT

Nice one, I didn't know this film, and Ben Gazarra is always ace.

Happy to see the film is on YouTube: youtu.be/A9R-AgxeQMg?...

04.02.2026 03:24 👍 2 🔁 2 💬 0 📌 0
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VENGEANCE IS MINE | Kirkus Reviews This 1943 novella by the Austrian Jewish writer Torberg—published before the horrors of the Nazi death camps were widely known—describes a brutal showdown between a Jewish prisoner and the German SS officer who calmly tells him he is about to die.

Our first Recovered Book from @bhousepress.bsky.social to be mentioned in Kirkus Reviews gets a starred review! Vengeance is Mine by Friedrich Torberg was written in exile in 1943. One of the earliest examples of Holocaust fiction, it's never before been translated.

20.01.2026 15:00 👍 17 🔁 8 💬 0 📌 2
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How Do People Stay The Same Galley Beggar Mail

There is a new book by Mark Bowles on the way. It's called How Do People Stay The Same. It is, as you might expect, a thing of beauty and wonder. Details here: www.galleybeggar.co.uk/campaigns/vi...

03.02.2026 09:59 👍 33 🔁 11 💬 2 📌 2
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From the essay, a quick explanation of "the light at the end of the tunnel" as a phrase.

01.02.2026 04:42 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
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The Light at the End of the Tunnel From 1967 to 1971, a recurring New Year’s Eve party in wartime Saigon proved to be an ironic, irreverent, and legendary interlude for those who knew the war would drag on for years to come.

From 1967 to 1971, a recurring New Year’s Eve party in wartime Saigon proved to be an ironic, irreverent, and legendary interlude for those who knew the war would drag on for years to come.
connla.substack.com/p/the-light-...

01.02.2026 04:42 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 1 📌 0
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I found this satirical poem called 'The Light At The End Of The Tunnel' in the second issue of the Vietnam Grunt (1968).

Below I'll also leave a lïnk for the essay I wrote about the Light at the End of the Tunnel parties held in Saigon on New Year's Eve from '67 to '70.

01.02.2026 04:42 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 1 📌 0
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A few pix of the zoo and gardens — and there are more images on the Substack.

28.01.2026 07:30 👍 2 🔁 1 💬 0 📌 0