Matt

Laguna del Desierto ferry also included its own views of a few glaciers along the way, a sneak preview of what awaits in El Chaltén

By the time the ferry arrived at 5pm, there were around 25 cyclists... Somehow the next boat managed to get everyone on, I have a feeling they've done that before.

Argentina border post was also the point the Laguna del Desierto ferry will come and pick people up, so became the lunch spot for all the cyclists and hikers heading south. Can see Mt Fitzroy in the distance

Boat trip, short bike up a hill, border control number 1, fun 15km cycle over the hills with a stunning singletrack section through a forest that bike parks would be jealous of, to the Argentine border control, then a second ferry across Laguna del Desierto, 30km more cycling to El Chalten

But as we know now... The end of the road is the start of the fun. Ferry south from Villa O'Higgins delayed by a day due to wind, and then made 5am in the morning. By "ferry" they meant a pretty small boat across Lago O'Higgins

Overall the Carretera has some great scenery but there are many other roads I've cycled which were as beautiful or more so, and without also being very busy with non stop traffic kicking up dust. Having lots of cyclists around made the campsites a good vibe, though I miss being the one crazy biker

Carretera Austral finished at Villa O'Higgins, which really is the John O'Groats of Chilé having no actual purpose except being the end of this one particular road, carrying on the NC500 comparison.

Bike starting to wear out... Cracks in the rear wheel. Should survive to the end, not planning on any more crazy mountain biking

Got very Scottish vibes for the Carretera Austral, reminding me a lot of the NC500 we rode. Partly the rain and scenery, but also got very Scottish looking thistles.

The Carretera is full of cyclists, I used to post on here every time I saw one but it's probably 20+ every day. It makes the campsites full of interesting people, mostly Europeans.

One exciting pair I did run into were the Brits I last saw on r40 north of Cafayate! Camped in Rio Tranquilo with them

Boat ain't boating. This was about the most interesting thing I saw in the town of Puerto Bertrand

Unfortunately rain's been a fairly constant thing during the week down the Carretera Austral. That, and the mountains being relatively distant means phone camera photos don't show much.

The other problem was dust on the gravel sections, which were super busy with cars and trucks.

Carretera is a mix of tarmac and gravel road, undulating but mostly known for the views. Winding through valleys as long as the sun's shining there'll be some mountains and glaciers on show.

It's downhill, and they really really mean it this time.

The hill signs are fun, they have a big variety of different car/truck pictures they use and seem to print them at all different angles.

Joined the Carretera Austral near-ish the start, map attached shows the full route and the border crossing at Futeleufú.

The Carretera is a famous cycle touring route, but in the traditional sense rather than the Bikepacking style, it's not listed on the Bikepacking website even.

Back into Chilé, border crossing next to the town of Futaleufú. Joining onto the Carretera Austral shortly.

I took a wrong turn?

Trevellin on the Argentina/Chilé border was/is a Welsh community. Only a few thousand Welsh speakers still here but signs are dual language.

It started raining soon after, so it wasn't just the language they brought out with them

Ended in a brewery too, "after every adventure" words to live by.

Day hike from El Bolsón, very simple route well travelled but having many "refugios" along the way that were more like cafes was great.

Was supposed to cycle through Los Alerces next. Was a stunning gravel road past the lakes through beautiful forests... But they were on fire. Was turned around at the start of the park, forcing me to do a very long and very boring loop around. Bomberos were hard at work, saw a lot of helicopters.

Rejoined the Ruta 40 south of Bariloche, not been on it for a while and for this section it's a stunning road along lakes and valleys

Met another Brit! Having seen almost none of them further north, southern Argentina seems to be the place we like to go. Doing the same short route I'm on but northbound, on his way to San Martin. @mjthomason.bsky.social

Despite being off grid, no phone signal, middle of nowhere... There was still a brewery 1km away for dinner

maps.app.goo.gl/iujqrkRYKAyM...

As protection from the rain, stayed in a tiny hostel. Couple of ex-bikepackers settled here in the middle of nowhere, electricity from solar panels and batteries, and built a "hostel" in the basement. Capacity: 6 people

Amazingly clear water in the lakes here, this one about half an hour north of Villa Meliquina, where I then stayed. Wouldn't believe it but it was thunderstorms for the whole night, starting about 2 hours after this

It's been a little while since the last real "pass", this small one Paso Córdoba was a nice return to the climbs. Not much left of big climbs this trip.

maps.app.goo.gl/oNrqJ9ChLcPc...

Bumped into a Brit (now lives USA) on the road south of San Martin! Heavy setup for the mountain he had to climb so no wonder he likes the look of mine

San Martin de los Andes is the start of beer country, lots of small breweries to make the cycling much harder.

So of course with so much beer around you'll never guess who I bumped into...

From Villarricca, was a cool route winding through volcanoes and lakes, finishing up with a border crossing back into Argentina (with an actual border post this time, makes it easier) and a ferry winding through a lake (not cheating, there was no alternative)

From Temuco, cycled up to a town called Villarricca, getting into volcano territory again and this one was a good view to have for dinner