2.5 hours in queues, which is at 5am for me, just to have payment errors during checkout, then forcing me to re-queue because of 10 minute expiry? This entire queue system just seems objectively worse than simply printing on demand
2.5 hours in queues, which is at 5am for me, just to have payment errors during checkout, then forcing me to re-queue because of 10 minute expiry? This entire queue system just seems objectively worse than simply printing on demand
check your order history, if it worked properly it should be on there
Whoever is using a 3DS to take photos at the lumineers gig, I hope you have a good day honestly
You fundamentally changed the landscape of the retro console and controller scene, everyone is grateful for it, and you should be proud. Best of luck with all your future endeavours, and thanks for all the fish ๐ซก
Holy fuck lol fancy Rhystic and a Bitterblossom
Wilds of Eldraine box ๐ splitting with a pal
Another secret lair, another opportunity for scalpers to scam the community by reusing queue tokens. Spotted scalping on ebay within minutes.
Isn't the queue token distinctly issued to the authorised account requesting it?
At some point, surely it's easier to manage "print to order"
Perfect fit for the lightpost, using a cut of clean filament to tunnel the sonoff light to the top surface show before. Got the idea for doing this after servicing a ps1 lol
Revised to click in only on one side, thickening that side. It's far stronger now and the fuse holder itself isn't going anywhere
Moved test printing over to use petg and found that the fuse holder wasn't strong enough to flex without snapping, even when printed with 0% cooling. Not a shock given the walls are only 1.2mm, three walls with a 0.4mm nozzle
It was also really important to me to get an inline fuse in there, because why wouldn't you with how easy it is to do. Fits this standard style of fuse holder
The top shell has a supporting cylinder for a button extension, and a tunnel for some clear filament to act as a lightpost for the LED on the Sonoff. The top shell has a very thin layer where the lightpost goes to, making it invisible when not illuminated. Really happy with how it turned out
I ended up going with this orientation for the sonoff unit, laying flat, as it let me easily route the wiring and use a stand-off design to rest the toggle switch on top of
Long time no update, the lamp foot switch project is almost done. I put it off while I was working on some upgrades for my 3D printer, but only a few minor tweaks and I can print the final shell
sweating...mabel why....
You can finally disable smart shuffle ๐ฉ finally I'm free from the nightmare
Did not expect the pacman episode of secret level's art style to go so hard wth, it's so pretty
huh...
Trying to work out what kind of layout to do for the new switch body to retain _some_ of the original shape is tricky ๐ค
To bake an apple pie first you must invent the er uh unnecessarily detailed model of the sonoff switch
(Original for reference)
Recreating the lamp switch shell to retain some of the aesthetic and I...
Overall I think for space efficiency I'll go vertical. This also lets me make the pairing switch accessible with a printed post or similar button on the shell. To model this into the final switch I roughly recreated the switch in fusion so I can project the lines
For the next part of the lamp project, I need to throw something together to hold the zigbee controller. I'm going to use a Sonoff zbminil2, so I threw together a couple of test prints for mounting it vertically or horizontally
The test print was almost perfect, roughly half a mm off position. The posts hold the copper plates in, and the part that contacts with the end of the switch rocker clamps the rocker 'bar' perfectly. Just the switch gap needs to move over a little, .4mm should be enough I think
To get the angle for the circle I used my callipers to find the largest height and width of the circle, marked them, and then used the rocker switch centre line as the baseline for finding the right angle for the switch cutout, 16, since 90 - 74, math, etc, you get it
From here (and in a previous post) I'll be designing the parts needed for a new cover, retaining the existing rocker switch (i'll cut it out, it's already designed and solid, so why not, right?)
The mechanism itself is interesting, it's just two copper plates that separate the live wire, and a toggle pin/plate that connects on the rocker switch being switched. Simple but it works. The unpopulated part of the rocker i'll likely cut off to gain space in the new shell